Traveling

March 12, 2023 – March 22, 2023

🇯🇵: Tokyo, Yokohama,  Fujikawaguchiko, Oshino

My second trip to Tokyo was a deeper dive into a city that will always hold a piece of my soul. My girlfriend joined me again, and the journey itself began in a whirlwind. I’d just wrapped up a two-week business trip that brought me from Milan to Barcelona and back, ten days after I was in the air again, bound for Japan.

We were somewhere over the Pacific when we learned that Japan officially lifted its mask recommendation, as it was one of the last countries to do so when travel reopened after COVID in October of 2022. Ironically, during the flight, someone a few rows over  was persistently coughing, sneezing, and someone nearby got sick and threw up. That should’ve been a red flag, but we stayed masked up and didn’t think much of it.

In the beginning, the second visit felt different. Instead of sensory overload, there was a comforting familiarity. I felt incredibly comfortable navigating Tokyo, my language skills had improved, and I felt a much deeper connection to the culture. We kicked things off right, heading straight for one of our favorite udon spots, Marugame, a perfect welcome back.

There was also this one song I kept hearing everywhere in Shibuya and it came to define the trip. The song is 人は夢を二度見る by Nogizaka46. It felt like it was playing from every screen and storefront.  Now, whenever I want to bring myself back to that trip, I put it on. The second it starts, mentally,  I’m there again and it brings me to tears.

The Unforeseen Turn

This trip was ultimately dominated by three major themes: the overwhelming beauty of the cherry blossoms, the majesty of Fuji, and unfortunately, that unforeseen turn I mentioned earlier. Just before our highly anticipated trip to see Fuji-san, my girlfriend and I both got very, very sick. It felt like I’d swallowed razor blades whenever I ate or drank, and we both dealt with a multitude of illness-related issues. This put a significant damper on the second half of our adventure, preventing us from doing everything we’d planned. On the plus side, it also gave me an unexpected crash course in Japanese medicine. Their cold medicine is strong and surprisingly effective, so we stockpiled some to bring home.

Petals and Peaks

This trip’s true spectacle was the cherry blossoms. It was my first time seeing them, and honestly, I was surprised by how ubiquitous they were. Turn down a small alleyway in the city, BAM, cherry blossoms in the parking lot. Go to a local park, BOOM, more cherry blossoms.  An explosion of  pink and white everywhere, completely surpassing my expectations. Now, I know they weren’t all cherry blossoms. Some were peach, some plum, maybe even a few others, but they were all beautiful and symbolize spring in Japan. Of course, we revisited Meiji Shrine, still a beloved spot, though we didn’t get to witness a traditional wedding this time. A new, utterly charming highlight was my girlfriend’s recommendation: Kumachan Onsen, famous for its adorable teddy bear hot pot dishes. Yes, a  teddy bear tragically dissolves into your soup. 

We chased iconic views beyond the city too. A bus tour took us to Mt. Fuji, which lived up to our expectations, even if we were battling painful sore throats. After seeing Fuji for the first time, I instantly understood why Hokusai and so many other artists were captivated by its majestic beauty. We got some fantastic photos at Lake Kawaguchi after a relaxing tea ceremony, and then explored the natural springs at Oshino Village, all while managing our ongoing symptoms. Then, it was off to Yokohama, where the life-sized Gundam installation on the harbor was truly awesome, complete with a museum. Of course, I snagged some limited edition Gunpla there, too. Yokohama’s Chinatown was another culinary hit, and the undisputed snack of the year had to be Tanghulu—before it was popular.  It’s crunchy, sweet, and tangy all at once, pure perfection (and confection), and a welcome distraction from how we were feeling.

Ghibli Magic and Culinary Curiosities

Back in Tokyo, the views from the Skytree were simply awesome, making the sprawling city below feel impossibly vast and me incredibly small. A highlight I’d long dreamed of was securing tickets for the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka. These are notoriously hard to get for foreigners, selling out in seconds. The trick? There are simply more tickets available for Japanese customers, so I used some clever workarounds on the Japanese portal and then printed them out at a Lawson once we got there. The museum itself was magical and lived up to the hype, but they did not allow photos.

Revisiting some of the same shrines from my first trip, I noticed subtle shifts. There was a definite uptick in tourist crowds, even with COVID having just “ended,” though it was interesting to note a visible lack of Chinese tourists compared to pre-pandemic times. This time, I was much more conscious of honing my photography skills, trying to capture the vibrant scenes and quiet moments just right.

A memorable evening included high-class yakitori with a coworker, where I discovered just how much the Japanese can really drink! I even tried raw chicken yakitori; it’s perfectly safe there due to their strict food handling, but I’ll admit, I still prefer my chicken fully cooked.

Lingering Impressions

Despite the setback of illness, this second journey only solidified my love for Japan. The Japanese lifestyle, with its emphasis on order and communal harmony, felt incredibly refreshing. There was a noticeable absence of public trouble or aggressive behavior, and the streets were unbelievably spotless; the only wildness I saw were drunk salarymen laid out late on weekend nights, still tamer than any American college town. On this trip, I was reminded that cleanliness and respect aren’t just ideals, but achievable norms that contribute to a peaceful and pleasant society, making me question what we prioritize in my own culture. Even with the challenge, Tokyo, with its unique blend of chaos and calm, once again felt like a second home, reaffirming its irreplaceable place in my heart.