Savoring

Udon It Again

When it comes to Japanese noodle dishes, ramen typically steals the spotlight, but for me, nothing beats a satisfying bowl of udon.

On my very first trip to Japan, ramen was the star. The best bowl I’ve ever had came that first night, ordered from a vending machine for under 700 yen. It was half the price of what I’d pay at home, but twice as good. It set the tone for the trip, and was hard to top.

We were staying on Dogenzaka Hill in Shibuya, and every day we’d pass a few udon spots. One in particular caught my eye. Every evening, a line of salarymen would gather outside, waiting to eat after a long day of work. Eventually, I gave in and joined them. The restaurant was Marugame Seimen, a Japanese fast-casual chain specializing in udon.

The process was simple: grab a tray, choose your noodles (thickness, texture, type), and then move down the line to pile on toppings. Tempura vegetables and fish, even a fried crab leg and cuttlefish, which of course I added. I loaded up my bowl, sat elbow-to-elbow with locals, and realized what I have been missing. The flavors were fantastic, the noodles were perfect, and the experience was uniquely Japanese.

In 2023, a Japanese friend introduced me to something different: Tsurutontan. We went to the Brasserie location, situated on the 13th floor of a skyscraper overlooking the chaos that is the Shibuya Scramble.

Where Marugame feels quick and casual, Tsurutontan feels refined. They’re best known for their enormous ceramic bowls and a menu that balances tradition with playful twists. On one visit in 2023, the seasonal special was basashi (馬刺し), sashimi made from raw horse meat. When I returned in spring 2025, the focus had shifted to a sakura-themed menu featuring red sea bream (桜鯛).

But back to the main event: the udon. The noodles were thick, firm, and cooked to the ideal “bite” — al dente in my case — exactly what you’d expect from this type of restaurant. The broth was balanced and deeply flavored, complementing the texture of the noodles without overpowering them. It was a straightforward but perfectly executed bowl, and one that quickly became my standard for udon everywhere.

I always hit up Tsurutontan and Marugame when on Japan trips, and I even tried one of the Tsurutontan locations in Manhattan. To my surprise, the experience translated well across the Pacific; the flavors, the portions, even the oversized bowls were all present.

Now I love both ends of the spectrum. Marugame, with its cafeteria energy and quick, cheap bowls. Tsurutontan, with its giant bowls and refined menu. Between the two, I’ve come to realize ramen might have been my first love in Japan… but udon is the one I keep coming back to.